July 26, 2006

Kitchen gardens: crunching the 2005 numbers

The new USDA data on home food production in the US is in and it ain't pretty. The value of home-produced foods as a percentage of the total value of foods produced dropped by 20% from 2004 to 2005 meaning that we have hit the lowest mark in US history. If you take into account the fact that the average mouthful of food travels over 1500 miles from field to fork in the US, it's accurate to say that Americans have never been farther removed from the making of their food as we are now.

Now for the good news: what we're doing collectively and individually in our yards, lots, allotments, plots, and aplotments (yes, I know it's not a word, but it should be) is more important than ever. So keep it up and be sure to show your neighbor what a truly local and red ripe tomato tastes like. That's the best argument we have for doing what we do.

YEAR

(A) TOTAL FOOD SALES IN MILLIONS $

(B) VALUE OF HOME-GROWN FOODS IN MILLIONS $

(C) GRAND TOTAL OF A PLUS B

VALUE OF HOME –PRODUCED FOODS AS % OF GRAND TOTAL

1894

2,598

1,306

3,904

33.45%

1904

4,857

1,771

6,628

26.72%

1924

13,084

4,278

17,362

24.64%

1944

20,067

5,010

25,077

19.98%

1964

54,716

3,988

58,704

6.79%

1984

222,847

8,610

231,457

3.72%

2004

460,793

7,405

468,198

1.58%

2005 520,319 6,667 526,987 1.26%

July 22, 2006

Fresh tomatoes: an international favorite

"The best way to eat them is in the garden, warm and pungent from the vine, so that one can suck them unashamedly, and bend over if any juice escapes."-M.F.K. Fisher on Tomatoes

"In a world riven by hate, greed, and envy, everyone loves tomatoes...Real (as I will call vine-ripened, soft-walled, acid-flavor, summer-grown) tomatoes are an article of faith, a rallying point for the morally serious, a grail"-Raymond Sokolov, Food Writer

Reasonable people still manage to disagree on whether to classify the tomato as a fruit or a vegetable. There is however broad consensus about one thing: biting into a warm, summer tomato is one of the most luscious pleasures the kitchen garden has to offer.

At KGI, we share food writer MFK Fisher's "the simpler the better" approach to enjoying them. Below you'll find a "tomato table" which will hopefully give you some new ideas. It is not presented as a collection of exact recipes, but as a source of inspiration which you can adapt to your own appetite and tastes. Enjoy and remember to wipe your chin!


Origin

Description

 

Ingredients

Method

Belgium

Fresh tomatos stuffed with baby shrimp in lemon mayonnaise sauce

 

  • medium-sized, firm fleshed tomatoes
  • mayonnaise (home-made, if you can)
  • fresh lemon juice
  • parsley
  • cooked baby shrimp (the Belgians use "gray shrimp" coming from the North Sea, but pink ones will also work)

Cut tops off tomatoes and remove insides, salt and pepper inside, mix shrimp, lemon juice, chopped parsley, and mayonnaise in a separate bowl, fill tomatoes with shrimp mixture.

France

Tomato salad with vinaigrette

 

  • tomatoes (any kind) diced
  • basic vinaigrette (oil, vinegar, Dijon mustard)
  • shallot, minced
  • hard-boiled egg (optional)
  • salt and pepper
  • French bread

Prepare vinaigrette in salad bowl, add minced shallot, add diced tomatoes, and chopped egg, add salt and pepper, toss gently and serve with baguette to sop up the juices.

Greece

Tomato salad with feta cheese and olives

 

  • tomatoes (any kind) diced
  • olive oil
  • fresh lemon juice
  • oregano (optional)
  • feta cheese
  • purple onion
  • Greek (Kalamata) olives

Place sliced tomatoes on a serving dish. Sprinkle on the feta cheese, lemon juice, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with olives and onion slices.

India

Spicy ginger and tomato salad

 

  • tomatoes (any medium or large size), diced
  • fresh lime juice (1/4 cup for every 4 tomatoes)
  • fresh ginger, peeled and sliced paper thin (1/3 cup for every 4 tomatoes)
  • chopped mint
  • 1 medium spicy pepper (banana chile works well) seeded and sliced fine
  • salt

Place ginger and chile in a small glass or ceramic bowl, add lime juice, salt and pepper, let stand for 20 minutes. Slice tomatoes and arrange on plate. Add mint, salt and pepper. Add ginger mixture evenly over tomatoes. Serve chilled.

Italy

Tomato-basil bruschetta

 

 

  • tomatoes (plum are best) diced
  • olive oil
  • fresh lemon juice
  • basil, minced garlic
  • French or Italian bread sliced and toasted

Dice tomatoes and mix with all the other ingredients except bread; set aside. Toast slices of French or Italian bread. Spoon tomato mixture at room temperature onto toasted bread slices.

Poland

Traditional tomato-onion salad with a hint of sweetness.

 

  • tomatoes (any type) sliced
  • 1/4 cup of finely diced onion per tomato
  • 1/4 tsp of sugar per tomato
  • bye or sourdough bread
  • butter
  • salt and pepper

Prepare onion-sugar mixture and let sit for at least 15 minutes, slice tomatoes and place on plate in an overlapping fashion, salt and pepper them, spread onion mixture evenly over tomatoes, serve with buttered bread.

Spain

Tapas-style, tomato-anchovy toasts

 

 

  • tomatoes (any type) sliced
  • olive oil
  • garlic
  • Spanish or French bread sliced and toasted
  • anchovies in olive oil
  • ground pepper

While the bread is still warm, rub both sides of the toast with the garlic. Cut the tomatoes into halves and rub each side of the toast with some of them, so that the juice and seeds soak well into the toast . Slice the remaining tomatoes and arrange on the toasts. Drizzle each toast with olive oil and top with anchovy fillets. Add ground black pepper and serve.

Turkey

Tomato and onion salad with mint

  • tomatoes (any type) diced
  • olive oil, lemon juice
  • mint
  • parsley,
  • salt and pepper

Prepare olive oil and lemon juice mixture in a small bowl. Dice the tomatoes. Slice onions finely and toss them with salt in a small separate bowl. Let them sit for 20 minutes. Rinse the salt off the onions in cold water and squeeze to remove the remaining water. Layer, first the onions on a serving platter, then the tomatoes, then the parsley and mint. Pour lemon mixture over all.

July 21, 2006

In praise of recipe cards

zucchini_bread_card071906.jpg

Do you remember the good ol' days when people recorded their recipes on index cards and zuchinni was spelled with only one "n"? (Actually, we'll have to double-check that last fact.)

While recipe cards may be following the same flightless flight path as the Dodo Bird into extinction, their memory lives on thanks to - well, how can we say it - some kooks with cameras. Good kooks, though, our kind of kooks! The type of eccentric people who think that family food traditions are worth holding onto even if it means sitting down for a whole afternoon and shooting picture after picture of Mom's entire recipe archive and then posting them all to the internet.

Here are two recipe card slide shows we found posted on Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kdorff/sets/1512108/show/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/phil_g/sets/412209/show/

So now a question for you: how do you hold onto "keeper" recipes in our disposable, digital age? Kooky minds want to know.


Photo courtesy of Gisara

July 19, 2006

July 2006 Newsletter

springonions071906.JPG

This month, Darrol Shillingburg of Las Cruces, New Mexico gets us thinking about what it means to be a "principled gardener".

To read the full newsletter, please go here:
http://www.kitchengardeners.org/newsletterjuly06.htm

Al Gore and zucchini

Al Gore invented the internet and southern California invented the zucchini. Or is it vice-versa?

The latter claim - that zucchini would not be the international superstar it is were it not for California - is the subject of an article in today's Los Angeles Times. Be sure to check out the 3 SoCal-style zucchini recipes that go with the article.

July 18, 2006

All about intercropping

intercrop071806.JPG

You plant crops, but have you ever "intercropped" your crops? Chances are that you have without realizing it. Intercropping is like companion planting, except that it has more to do with finding two crops that fit well with one another in terms of space, sun and nutrient needs than it does matching complimentary plant personality types.

Here's how one useful Danish website explains it:

Intercropping is considered as the practical application of ecological principles such as diversity, crop interaction and other natural regulation mechanisms. Intercropping is defined as the growth of two or more crops in proximity in the same field during a growing season to promote interaction between them. Available growth resources, such as light, water and nutrients are more completely absorbed and converted to crop biomass by the intercrop as a result of differences in competitive ability for growth factors between intercrop components. The more efficient utilization of growth resources leads to yield advantages and increased stability compared to sole cropping.

Basic parsley sauce

This delicate sauce infused with the flavor of freshly chopped parsley offers a pleasant accompaniment for steamed vegetables or white fish.

Ingredients:
1 ounce butter (30 g)
1 ounce plain flour (30 g)
10 fluid ounces warm milk (300 ml) ("or" mixture of milk and light stock)
1 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley (15 ml)
salt and pepper, to taste


Procedure:
1. Melt the butter in a pan, but do not allow it to brown, then add the flour and stir until smooth.
2. Cook over a gentle heat for 2-3 minutes stirring constantly.
3. Remove from heat and add the liquid, little by little, stirring after each addition to prevent any lumps forming.
4. Bring the sauce to the boil, stirring continuously.
5. Add the parsley, salt and pepper and cook gently for a further 3 minutes.

July 14, 2006

Sybille Bedford on simplicity

"I detest...anything over-cooked, over-herbed, over-sauced, over elaborate. Nothing can go very far wrong at table as long as there is honest bread, butter, olive oil, a generous spirit, lively appetites and attention to what we are eating."
-Sybille Bedford, English author (1911-?)

July 12, 2006

Open thread: tomatoes

This poster in French reads "No to the Single European tomato: Preserve life's daily flavor and diversity". It is part of an ongoing campaign among some groups in Europe to resist gastronomic and cultural standardization.

So this month's open thread asks how are you on a personal level preserving flavor and diversity when it comes to tomatoes? What varieties do you plant and why? Does your garden favor heirlooms over hybrids? How do preserve the flavor of summer tomatoes once the summer is gone?

Please use the comment area below to sound off on tomatoes.


July 11, 2006

Climate change could spell sunset for wine industry

sunsetvineyard071106.jpg

By The Associated Press and Los Angeles Times

WASHINGTON — Climate warming could spell disaster for much of the multibillion-dollar U.S. wine industry.

Areas suitable for growing premium wine grapes could be reduced by 50 percent — and possibly as much as 81 percent — by the end of this century, according to a study Monday in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

The paper indicates increasing weather problems for grapes in such areas as California's Napa and Sonoma valleys.

The main problem: an increase in the frequency of extremely hot days, said Noah Diffenbaugh of the Department of Earth and Atmospheric Sciences at Purdue University.


Grapes used in premium wines need a consistent climate. When temperatures top about 95 degrees, the vines have problems maintaining photosynthesis and the sugars in the grapes can break down, said Diffenbaugh, a co-author of the report.

Until now, climate studies centered only on the impact of average temperature increases on wine production and concluded that wine growers might, if anything, benefit from the temperature increases expected in coming decades.

The new study, funded by the National Science Foundation, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration and Purdue University, involved five months of supercomputer calculations. It is the first study in which researchers have been able to calculate the daily temperature swings from various climate-change scenarios in such detail.

For the purposes of their computer simulation, the researchers assumed that levels of carbon dioxide and other gases would continue to rise to more than twice their current level by 2100, as outlined in standard global-warming scenarios.

Eventually, the computer simulation showed, the number of extremely hot days during the growing and ripening season would increase by three to eight weeks in much of the South Central and Southwestern United States — too hot to produce premium wine grapes.

The number of cool days would also decline by more than three weeks in many regions of the country, opening up some areas for new grape production, but also increasing the possibility of more rot, mildew and fungus infections in those areas.

The West Coast would experience one of the biggest changes in season, resulting in a significant alteration to the quality of its grape harvest. Suitable grape-growing areas in California would shrink to a narrow coastal band, the researchers said, while premium wine-grape areas would shift into the Pacific Northwest and New England.

Article source: AP and the Los Angeles Times
Photo credit: Joe Thorn

July 7, 2006

Video how-to: frittata

Frittatas are one the best inventions known to humankind for recycling yesterday's veggies into something new and "delicioso", as their Italian inventors would say. Related to its French cousins "omelet "and "quiche", the humble frittata is not going to win you the James Beard award, but it may just win you some "oohs" and "aahhs" with friends and family who never knew leftovers could taste so good.

Technical note: this video uses Windows Media Player. To start video, click twice on the play button and wait for video to buffer.

Video source: The Food Network

July 6, 2006

Homemade ketchup

ketchup070606.jpg

In an age when most people would not consider making their own french fries from scratch, it is even stranger thought that some might entertain cooking up the ketchup to go along with it. Those days may be long gone for most of fast food nation, but they live on for a brave few who want to rediscover the pure flavors of yesteryear.

Ingredients:
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, sliced
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon chile flakes
1/2 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
4 cups tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into chunks or two 14.5-ounce cans chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup distilled vinegar
1 tablespoon kosher salt

Procedure:
1. Heat oil over medium in a large saucepan. Add onion and saute until golden, about 15 minutes. Add garlic, cloves, allspice, chile flakes, ancho chile powder and mustard seeds and cook for 1-2 minutes, until aromatic.

2. Add tomatoes, brown sugar, vinegar and salt. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a light simmer and cook 35 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep from burning.

3. Remove from heat and blend or process until smooth. Press through a fine strainer into a clean saucepan, pressing on the solids hard to push as much through as possible.

4. Cook over medium heat for another 15 minutes until thick, stirring to keep it from sticking. Cool before serving.

Variation: You can add any of the following spices for a different flavor: 2 teaspoons curry powder, 1 tablespoon minced ginger, a half head of roasted garlic, or 1 tablespoon harissa.

Yields 1 1/4 cups

Recipe source: San Francisco Chronicle
Photo source: Automania

July 4, 2006

Tomatillo Salsa

tomatillo070406.jpg

Ingredients:
2 cups husked, rinsed and chopped tomatillos (or use 1½ cups tomatillos and ½ cup cored and chopped ripe or green tomatoes)
2 medium poblano or other mild green fresh chilies, optional, preferably roasted and skinned
1 teaspoon minced garlic, or to taste
¼ cup chopped white onion
Salt and pepper to taste
Cayenne or minced jalapeño to taste, optional
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves.

Procedure:
1. In a bowl, combine tomatillos, poblanos if you are using them, garlic, onion, salt, pepper and cayenne or chili. Let stand at room temperature for up to an hour, or refrigerate for up to ½ day (bring back to room temperature before serving).

2. Taste and adjust seasoning, then stir in lime juice and half the cilantro; taste and adjust seasoning again, then garnish with remaining cilantro. Serve.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Recipe source: New York Times
Photo source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/laraferroni/