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<title>Kitchen Gardeners International</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/" />
<modified>2008-05-15T20:40:42Z</modified>
<tagline></tagline>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13</id>
<generator url="http://www.movabletype.org/" version="3.33">Movable Type</generator>
<copyright>Copyright (c) 2008, KGI</copyright>
<entry>
<title>Garden Q &amp; A: Planting spring root crops</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/05/planting_root_crops.html" />
<modified>2008-05-15T20:40:42Z</modified>
<issued>2008-05-15T20:26:55Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.677</id>
<created>2008-05-15T20:26:55Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> Q: I know I can grow radishes in spring. Can I plant any other root crops then? A: Beets, radishes, parsnips, rutabagas, and turnips share a love for cool weather, and growing them when temperatures are cool is the...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>organic gardening</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/459335134_f9f9f6dacd.jpg"/></p>

<p><em><strong>Q: I know I can grow radishes in spring. Can I plant any other root crops then? </strong></em></p>

<p>A: Beets, radishes, parsnips, rutabagas, and turnips share a love for cool weather, and growing them when temperatures are cool is the secret to sweet, crisp roots. Start sowing spring radish seeds as soon as the soil can be worked, and plants will be ready for harvest in as little as 3 weeks. Fast, even growth is the secret to a good crop. Sow new crops every week or 10 days until daytime temperatures remain above about 65°F/18.3°C. After that, the roots will be bitter and tough, not spicy and crisp. </p>

<p>Beets and turnips also can be grown in spring, but they take slightly longer than radishes—from seed, beets take 1 to 2 months, turnips 1 to 2 months. Beets germinate in 45°F/7.2°C soil, but you’ll probably get better results if you wait a bit and sow both beets and turnips once the soil is at least 50°F/10°C. If you harvest turnips when they’re still small, you can sow successive crops every 10 days until warm temperatures (daytime highs in the low 70s/21-23°C) arrive to spread out the harvest. </p>

<p>Some long-season or winter radishes also can be sown at the same time as beets and turnips in spring. Look for bolt-resistant cultivars that mature in 40 or 50 days, and sow as soon as the soil can be worked. Parsnips are the slowpokes of this group. Sow them in early to mid-spring for fall harvest.</p>

<p>Reprinted from <i><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FVeggie-Gardeners-Answer-Book-Solutions%2Fdp%2F160342024X%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1210272623%26sr%3D8-1&tag=kitchen-gardeners-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">The Veggie Gardener's Answer Book</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchen-gardeners-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /><br />
</b></i> Copyright 2008 by Barbara W. Ellis, with permission from Storey Publishing.<br />
Creative Commons photo credit: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/fixwriter/">Chantal Foster</a><br />
</p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Keeping kitty at paw&apos;s length</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/05/keeping_kitty_at_paws_length.html" />
<modified>2008-05-15T20:07:46Z</modified>
<issued>2008-05-15T19:34:04Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.676</id>
<created>2008-05-15T19:34:04Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain">By Barbara Damrosch, published Thursday, May 15, 2008 in The Washington Post Ron is frantic. His urban cat has a perfectly good litter box but prefers to use the pots and planters on the sunny windowsill where Ron is trying...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>organic gardening</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p>By <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGarden-Primer-Second-Barbara-Damrosch%2Fdp%2F0761122753%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1202413936%26sr%3D1-2&tag=kitchengarden-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Barbara Damrosch</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchengarden-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />, published Thursday, May 15, 2008 in The Washington Post</p>

<p><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/68/169793137_1e21de9f18.jpg"/></p>

<p>Ron is frantic. His urban cat has a perfectly good litter box but prefers to use the pots and planters on the sunny windowsill where Ron is trying to grow herbs. It's natural that his pet prefers natural earth to the bagged imitation. Cats' instinct is to bury their droppings in soil by digging and scratching, and the job is much easier in soil that is loose and fluffy. The kind gardeners create.</p>

<p>Solving Ron's problem is easy. Covering the soil surface of indoor pots with attractive stones, or a lid of chicken wire cut to accommodate the plant's stem, will send Kitty back to her box. Even cats that nibble on or play with foliage can be foiled by a hanging planter (unless they're trying out for a feline Cirque du Soleil). But for outdoor gardeners, the problem is a more serious one. Cat and dog excrement contains pathogens that are transmissible to humans, and it's especially important to keep them out of food gardens.</p>

<p>Soil barriers work outdoors as well as in, especially in a small garden. Strips of wire mesh that are placed between plant rows and are removable for cultivating and weeding are effective, as are flagstones, bird netting, pieces of carpet, black plastic, or any agricultural fabric such as Reemay or shade cloth. When mature, crops such as kale and squash will block access with their large leaves. Cats avoid a garden strewn with rose or raspberry briers, though you might, too, unless you wear leather gloves. Some people swear by repellents applied to the soil. I'd avoid any commercial product with a warning label on it, but a five-alarm dressing of hot pepper, curry powder, mustard, garlic, chopped citrus peels or eucalyptus oil might help. You'll need to whip up a fresh batch whenever it rains. Plants touted as cat repellers, such as rue, are unlikely to have much effect.</p>

<p>With any repellent, you might have to provide another place for the cat to go. After all, even a restroom that reeks of cheap potpourri (or worse) will be used if there is no nicer one nearby. Some people set aside a cat area with loose soil or peat moss and maintain it as a litter box. As a lure, they plant a cat grass to nibble, such as oats, or a stand of catnip (a cat narcotic). But I'm dubious. Most creatures prefer not to do their business where they eat or do drugs.</p>

<p>Your best trump card is the fact that cats hate water. A squirt gun is a handy item for the tool basket, a hose even better. (For times you're not there, you can use a motion-sensing pest and animal squirter.) According to Shannon Hayes, author of "The Grassfed Gourmet Cookbook," who is wise in the ways of the four-footed, the hose trick is foolproof.</p>

<p><em>Article copyright of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGarden-Primer-Second-Barbara-Damrosch%2Fdp%2F0761122753%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1202413936%26sr%3D1-2&tag=kitchengarden-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Barbara Damrosch</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchengarden-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />. Reprinted with permission. </em><br />
<em>Creative Commons photo credit: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/arse_writes/">A. Shoots</a></em></p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Borscht recipe</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/05/chilled_borscht.html" />
<modified>2008-05-15T19:25:59Z</modified>
<issued>2008-05-15T11:29:52Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.675</id>
<created>2008-05-15T11:29:52Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> As we all know from past embarrassing moments, there&apos;s no red deeper than beet red. And there&apos;s no red soup redder than borscht. While borscht is traditionally a cool weather soup, served when the beets and cabbages are at...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>cooking and recipes</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/73/181172624_5a4373e73a.jpg"/></p>

<p>As we all know from past embarrassing moments, there's no red deeper than beet red.  And there's no red soup redder than borscht.  While borscht is traditionally a cool weather soup, served when the beets and cabbages are at their plumpest, it can also be enjoyed during the warm months or in warm climates served either at room temperature or chilled.  </p>

<p><strong>Ingredients:</strong><br />
1 medium onion, finely diced<br />
2 small leeks, thinly sliced<br />
1 rib celery, finely diced<br />
1 medium carrot, finely diced<br />
2 cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 1/2 pounds fresh beets, peeled and diced<br />
2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
4 cups vegetable broth (you may also use chicken or beef, if preferred)<br />
4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar<br />
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill   more to add at the end<br />
4 tablespoons sour cream<br />
salt and pepper to taste</p>

<p><strong>Procedure:</strong><br />
1. Prep all the vegetables. To prepare the leeks, rinse them well under cold running water, making sure to pull apart each layer with your fingers to remove any sand or soil lodged in between. Cut off and toss the root end, and thinly slice the white part.<br />
2. Heat the butter over medium heat in a large heavy stock pot until it melts and foams. Add the onions, leeks, celery, carrot, garlic, beets, and the salt & pepper and stir. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften, 15-20 minutes.<br />
3. Add the vegetable broth and bring the soup to a simmer. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes.<br />
4. Stir in the vinegar, dill and more salt & pepper to taste. Puree using an immersion stick blender (optional). <br />
5.  Ladle the soup into individual bowls and top with sour cream and a sprinkling of dill or shaved carrot for added color. </p>

<p>Serves 4-6</p>

<p>Creative Commons photo credit: <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/vidiot/">Vidiot</a></p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Gardening Q &amp; A: Dealing with transplants</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/05/dealing_with_transplants.html" />
<modified>2008-05-08T20:42:06Z</modified>
<issued>2008-05-08T19:26:35Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.673</id>
<created>2008-05-08T19:26:35Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> Q: I don’t want to bother with seeds this year, so how do I make sure I buy healthy transplants? A: First, you’re better off buying transplants from a garden center than from a grocery store or big-box store,...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>organic gardening</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/122/314999181_5cd5f146cb.jpg"/></p>

<p><em><strong>Q:  I don’t want to bother with seeds this year, so how do I make sure I buy healthy transplants? </strong></em></p>

<p>A:  First, you’re better off buying transplants from a garden center than from a grocery store or big-box store, where they may or may not get adequate watering or other care. Look for bushy, compact plants that have healthy green leaves. Check the roots, too, by gently dumping a plant out of its pot while holding the top of the rootball between your fingers.</p>

<p>If you decide to buy larger plants, pick off any fruits that have already started forming. This redirects the plants’ energy into producing roots, which it will need for the long haul. If the nursery or garden center you usually shop at only offers seedlings in market packs, and you don’t want to grow six plants of a single cultivar, try one of these options:</p>

<p>-Shop at a local farmers’ market in spring. Local growers often offer vegetable seedlings for sale.<br />
-Shop for seedlings online. There are Internet companies that sell single transplants.<br />
-Buy market packs of all the cultivars you want to grow, and share excess seedlings with friends and neighbors. Or see if a local community gardening group, garden club, or food pantry would be able to use the extras.<br />
-Ask if the nursery will let you “switch out” cultivars in a market pack.<br />
-Buy all the cultivars you want to grow, and toss the extra plants on the compost pile.</p>

<p>Reprinted from <i><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FVeggie-Gardeners-Answer-Book-Solutions%2Fdp%2F160342024X%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1210272623%26sr%3D8-1&tag=kitchen-gardeners-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">The Veggie Gardener's Answer Book</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchen-gardeners-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /><br />
</b></i> Copyright 2008 by Barbara W. Ellis, with permission from Storey Publishing.<br />
Creative Commons photo credit: <a href="http://flickr.com/people/lordbute/">Lord Bute</a><br />
</p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Wombat wisdom</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/05/wombat_wisdom.html" />
<modified>2008-05-05T19:53:21Z</modified>
<issued>2008-05-05T19:47:26Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.671</id>
<created>2008-05-05T19:47:26Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> This little furry fella has got it all figured out. Pass it on....</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>

<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><object width="500" height="412"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/u8c-F-ljEeM&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/u8c-F-ljEeM&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="500" height="412"></embed></object></p>

<p>This little furry fella has got it all figured out.  Pass it on. </p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>No scallions, no problem</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/no_scallions_no_problem.html" />
<modified>2008-05-06T17:13:01Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-26T16:56:46Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.672</id>
<created>2008-04-26T16:56:46Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain">By Barbara Damrosch, published Thursday, April 24, 2008 in The Washington Post Wonderful as it is to eat only what&apos;s in season, there are some vegetables that a cook always likes to have on hand, and the scallion is one...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>organic gardening</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p>By <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGarden-Primer-Second-Barbara-Damrosch%2Fdp%2F0761122753%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1202413936%26sr%3D1-2&tag=kitchengarden-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Barbara Damrosch</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchengarden-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />, published Thursday, April 24, 2008 in The Washington Post</p>

<p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2383/1682707869_79eee632fc.jpg"/></p>

<p>Wonderful as it is to eat only what's in season, there are some vegetables that a cook always likes to have on hand, and the scallion is one of them. Whenever a dish looks or tastes a little bland, all you need to do is grab a scallion and a pair of scissors and snip away, letting the pieces cascade over the surface. Your creation will instantly look fresh and appetizing, whether it's a salad, a stir-fry, a bowl of chili or borscht.</p>

<p>To grow scallions properly, though, it's best to sow them in cool weather, when the soil is about 50 degrees. They don't relish heat, so if you haven't started any for your summer garden, you'll have to wait until the season starts to moderate a bit, then plant them as a fall or winter crop. In the meantime, this means no scallions to put in summer salsas or to scatter over that boring, oh-so-white potato salad.</p>

<p>I find that by broadening the definition of the scallion, I can extend its season. Strictly speaking, a scallion, often called a bunching onion, is an onion that never forms a bulb at the end but remains straight and slender from top to bottom -- like a leek, only tiny. (Botanically it's a distinct species, Allium fistulosum.) But you can get those slender, long green-oniony leaves from any plant that is, at the moment, exhibiting scalliony behavior.</p>

<p>Viewed this way, scallion season might start with the onion bin at winter's end, when your storage onions have reached the end of their shelf life. The bulbs have softened and are sending out long shoots from the tops. These are a bit firmer than classic scallion foliage but just as good to eat. If they're pale from having begun life in darkness, just set them on a sunny windowsill and they'll green right up in a day or so. In the old days, these sprouts were often the only green thing to eat before spring crops started to bear.</p>

<p>Regular bulbing onions, on their way to maturity, can always have their tops robbed prematurely at those times when scallions are a necessity. Sometimes bulbing onions don't ever get around to bulbing at all. Don't call them a crop failure. Call them scallions.</p>

<p>Perhaps you intended to plant bulb onions and never got around to it. Visit the garden center and see if there are any leftover onion sets, those tiny dry bulbs that turn into big bulbs at summer's end. Plant them now. They'll be more heat-tolerant than the seed-sown types, and if you keep them watered they should at least yield some green tops. Steal a few tops from your garlic and shallots while you're at it. And when the chives get fat and mature in summer, they'll be almost scallionlike, too, or at least a good enough imitation to tide you over until cool, scallion-planting weather returns. </p>

<p><em>Article copyright of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGarden-Primer-Second-Barbara-Damrosch%2Fdp%2F0761122753%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1202413936%26sr%3D1-2&tag=kitchengarden-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Barbara Damrosch</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchengarden-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />. Reprinted with permission. </em><br />
<em>Image credit: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronfreimark/">Aaron Freimark</a></em></p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Suburban farming</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/suburban_farming_video.html" />
<modified>2008-04-26T15:53:28Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-26T15:49:13Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.669</id>
<created>2008-04-26T15:49:13Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> With food and oil prices zooming into the stratosphere, we&apos;re likely to see a lot more small, neighborhood-scale farms like the ones featured in this Wall Street Journal report. Who said that the suburbs were just for growing lawns?...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>food news</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><object width="500" height="412"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/AJbqOqSdpx4&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/AJbqOqSdpx4&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="500" height="412"></embed></object></p>

<p>With food and oil prices zooming into the stratosphere, we're likely to see a lot more small, neighborhood-scale farms like the ones featured in this Wall Street Journal report.  Who said that the suburbs were just for growing lawns?  </p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Mark your calendars: kitchen gardener global meetups!</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/kgi_international_gatherings.html" />
<modified>2008-04-28T15:55:59Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-26T15:17:36Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.670</id>
<created>2008-04-26T15:17:36Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain">As well as encouraging kitchen gardening at a local level, KGI would like to foster the connecting of kitchen gardeners worldwide, not just through the KGI community website but also in person. To this end we would like to endorse...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>KGI news and activities</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p>As well as encouraging kitchen gardening at a local level, KGI would like to foster the connecting of kitchen gardeners worldwide, not just through the <a href="http://my.kitchengardeners.org/">KGI community website</a> but also in person. To this end we would like to endorse Kitchen Garden Day events run by members where both local and international kitchen gardeners are welcome to come and share what a region has to offer and learn about what makes their gardens and food local.<br />
 <br />
All travelling KGI members would be welcome to any of these events. The gatherings in South West France (2009) and South Australia (2010) plan to be inexpensive and based around food gardening, markets, local specialties and a lot of fun just getting together, covering a day or two either side of KGI Day. </p>

<p>Unlike the French and Australian gatherings which will coincide with Kitchen Garden Day (4th Sunday of August) in their respective years, the Maine event in 2011 is scheduled for September 17th and 18th in order to give participants an opportunity to attend the Common Ground Fair, the US largest organic agricultural fair which takes place each year in Unity, Maine in late September.  <br />
 <br />
So here are the dates and destinations you can pencil into your long-range diaries:<br />
 <br />
22-23 August 2009: South West France<br />
21-22 August 2010: In and around Adelaide Australia<br />
17-18 September 2011: Maine, USA<br />
 <br />
To be perfectly clear, we're not talking about organizing huge international "kitchen garden Olympics" with large carbon footprints to bring the world's gardeners together in one spot.  Rather, we're letting you know in the event that you are considering travel to these locations already or have dreamed about it and would like to plan your travel in order to meet up with like-minded people from other parts of the world. </p>

<p>We will be providing more details about these events as we have them.  In the meanwhile, you can be in touch with the local organizers directly via the KGI community site:   .<br />
 <br />
France 2009: <a href="http://my.kitchengardeners.org/profile/Just">Ian</a><br />
Australia 2010: <a href="http://my.kitchengardeners.org/profile/Kate">Kate</a><br />
Maine 2011: <a href="http://my.kitchengardeners.org/profile/rdoiron">Roger</a> and <a href="http://my.kitchengardeners.org/profile/Maya">Maya</a></p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>KGI: the toast of the blogosphere</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/kgi_the_toast_of_the_blogosphere.html" />
<modified>2008-04-25T15:04:59Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-23T19:40:09Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.667</id>
<created>2008-04-23T19:40:09Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> Well, not that kind of toast. We&apos;re referring to the bumper crop of blog posts that have been written about KGI over the course of the past several weeks. These include diverse sites such as Take a Bite out...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>KGI news and activities</dc:subject>
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<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3103/2416716615_f54e18ae17.jpg"/></p>

<p>Well, not <em>that </em>kind of toast.  We're referring to the bumper crop of blog posts that have been written about KGI over the course of the past several weeks. These include diverse sites such as <a href="http://www.takeabite.cc/blog/ready-set-plant/">Take a Bite out of Climate Change</a>, <a href="http://www.slowfoodblog.org/?p=232">Slow Food USA's blog</a>, <a href="http://climatetoday.org/?p=667">Climate Today</a>, and <a href="http://www.dwell.com/daily/kitchenblog/17863929.html">Dwell Magazine</a>.  The prize for comprehensive and blogging creativity goes to Kerry Trueman who blogs for <a href="http://www.EatingLiberally.org">EatingLiberally.org</a> and the <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com">Huffington Post</a>.  She included us recently in a post about groups and individuals who are working to carry out a "<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/kerry-trueman/a-terroirist-plot-on-amer_b_98172.html">Terroirist Plot on American Soil</a>" (yes, that spelling - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terroir">terroir</a>-ist - is right).  And we thought we were clever back in 2006 when we referred to our "<a href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2006/03/march_2006_newsletter.html">Subversive Plot</a>" to encourage more people to grow some of their own food. </p>

<p>To all the food and garden bloggers out there - whether you're a terroirist, subversive or "dirt-y minded" - thanks for covering our work and that of the many other groups and individuals working to shorten the distance from plot to plate.</p>

<p>Photo credit: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/dnorman/">D'Arcy Norman </a><br />
</p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>April 2008 Newsletter</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/april_2008_newsletter.html" />
<modified>2008-04-17T12:12:05Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-17T03:04:12Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.666</id>
<created>2008-04-17T03:04:12Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> Dear Kitchen Gardener, From times immemorial, gardeners throughout the world have endured hardships of all kinds: floods, droughts, blights, swarming locusts, and, in the case of Dutch growers, centuries of uncomfortable footwear. As a New England gardener, I have...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>KGI newsletters</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2417/2418265411_d03f878d07.jpg"/></p>

<p>Dear Kitchen Gardener,</p>

<p>From times immemorial, gardeners throughout the world have endured hardships of all kinds: floods, droughts, blights, swarming locusts, and, in the case of Dutch growers, centuries of uncomfortable footwear.  </p>

<p>As a New England gardener, I have my own share of climate-related challenges, for example trying to keep track of seasons that can change from one hour to the next.  For those of you who haven’t been to Maine before, we just recently welcomed the arrival of our fifth season – mud season – which is sandwiched between winter and spring and which helps explain why babies here are born wearing miniature LL Bean boots instead of pink and blue booties. Spring here only starts around May 1st and usually wraps up around May 10th or 15th. For those of you who are curious, Maine’s summer officially starts with the arrival of the first mosquito or Massachusetts tourist, whichever comes first, and ends when all of them, tourists and stinging insects, have left.</p>

<p>In celebration of mud season, I am proposing that home growers finally catch a break.  Not from bugs, weather, or clunky garden shoes, but from taxes.  It’s not as silly an idea as it may sound. We provide fiscal incentives to people to encourage them to put hybrid cars in their garages and solar panels on their roofs, so why not offer incentives for solar-powered, healthy food production in their backyard? With wars still waging, food and oil costs rising, and paychecks stretching to the breaking point, now is the time for a home-grown revival.  What better way to usher in this revolution than by marrying two great American traditions: vegetable gardening and tax cuts? </p>

<p>It wouldn’t be the first time that our country encouraged its citizens to grow some of their own food.   The government’s wartime “Victory Garden” campaign was a success by every measure.  By 1943, 20 million gardens were growing 8 million tons of food (an amount comparable to that of the nation’s farms) and Americans were eating more healthy fruits and vegetables than ever before.         </p>

<p>More home gardens would offer us victory not only over rising food and healthcare costs, but also foreign oil dependency and climate change.  Researcher estimate that locally-grown foods use up to 17 times less climate-warming, fossil fuels than foods from away.  And when it comes to local foods, it doesn’t get any “localer” than one’s own yard.  </p>

<p>There are different breaks that local, state and federal governments could offer home gardeners.  Sales taxes on seeds, seedlings, fruit bushes and trees could be removed.  Better still, an income tax break could be administered as is done with home offices where people measure and deduct the square footage of their houses used for business purposes.  The bigger your garden, the better the tax break. Those with no yard could deduct the rental fee for a community garden plot.</p>

<p>Tax break or not, I’ll soon be outside fighting climate change, rising food prices, and mosquitoes in my own modest backyard.  Last year, my family and I converted our $85 seed order into six months worth of delicious, fresh vegetables. This year, if we’re lucky, that should take us right into winter which in Maine starts in mid November, except for those years when it comes early.  </p>

<p>Wishing you bountiful harvests and comfortable footwear this season,<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/sig.bmp" border="0" height="51" width="88"></font></p><br />
</p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Growing peas</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/planting_peas.html" />
<modified>2008-04-17T02:52:50Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-16T19:55:02Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.665</id>
<created>2008-04-16T19:55:02Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> The three basic types you can grow are shell peas, snow peas, and sugarsnaps. Shell peas are opened (shelled) so you can get the peas out of the pods. These are the traditional pea varieties grown in New England....</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>organic gardening</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1232/825199125_4480e796f2.jpg"/></p>

<p>The three basic types you can grow are shell peas, snow peas, and sugarsnaps. Shell peas are opened (shelled) so you can get the peas out of the pods. These are the traditional pea varieties grown in New England. Snow pea pods are harvested before the seeds get large. They are often used in Asian cooking (stir-fries) or salads. Sugarsnap varieties are eaten whole -- both the pod and the peas are edible -- and they tend to be sweet.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3097/2419347843_e82bdfc443.jpg"/></p>

<p>Planting peas is easy. You simply make a shallow trench (about an inch deep and 3 inches wide) in your garden and scatter the seeds in the trench. If you want to get fancy, you can coat your peas with an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_inoculant">inoculant</a> (a beneficial bacteria) before planting to help the plants to fix nitrogen.  An ounce of seed will plant about five feet of row. Cover the seeds firmly with soil and wait for the seeds to germinate. This usually takes about five to seven days. The peas don't need to be thinned, but you will want to keep the rows weeded.</p>

<p>When you plant your peas, the spacing between rows depends on the varieties that you are growing. Dwarf varieties don't need to be trellised, and the rows can be planted about 18 inches apart. Full size varieties need to be trellised, and they should be spaced about 4 feet apart. If the seed packet doesn't tell you that the peas are a dwarf variety, you should plan to erect a trellis.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/12/18125230_233c401566.jpg"/></p>

<p>A trellis can be as simple or fancy as you want to make it. The easiest version is to put two posts in the ground, about ten feet apart within the row, and fasten a net trellis to the posts. (Reusable trellises that last many years are available at most garden supply stores.) If you want a more traditional trellis, gardeners for hundreds of years have grown their peas on branches stuck into the ground and woven together to form a row. If you decide to grow your peas on a brush trellis, you may want to allow a little more space between rows to make it easier to weed or harvest.</p>

<p>Because peas like cool soils, after the plants germinate you can keep the soil mulched with grass clippings or other materials to help keep weeds down.</p>

<p>Dwarf varieties are ready to eat in as little as seven weeks. Some of the taller varieties take up to ten weeks to reach maturity. Harvest shell peas just as the peas fill out the pods.</p>

<p><em>Text credit: <a href="http://www.mofga.org">Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association</a></em><br />
Photo credits: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cpt_obvious/">Cpt. Obvious</a>, <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/oubliette/">Mira D'Oubiette</a></p>]]>

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</entry>
<entry>
<title>Interview with organic farmer and writer Will Allen</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/interview_with_will_allen.html" />
<modified>2008-04-17T15:11:56Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-16T15:17:11Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.664</id>
<created>2008-04-16T15:17:11Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain">Many people question the safety of their food and the exposure of the food supply to toxic pesticides and fertilizers. But Will Allen – founder of the Sustainable Cotton Project, organic farmer, and author of the new book, The War...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>food system change</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img alt="willallen041608.jpg" src="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/pics/willallen041608.jpg" width="226" height="151" class="floatimgright"/>Many people question the safety of their food and the exposure of the food supply to toxic pesticides and fertilizers. But Will Allen – founder of the Sustainable Cotton Project, organic farmer, and author of the new book, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http://www.amazon.com/War-Bugs-Will-Allen/dp/1933392460?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1207223357&sr=8-1&tag=kitchen-gardeners-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">The War on Bugs</a> – takes it one step further. Allen examines the historical connection between advertising and agriculture and how toxic chemicals were marketed and sold to farmers, seeping into the American ethos as safe, effective, and necessary. </p>

<p>Allen, who lives and writes in East Thetford, Vermont, recently shared his personal story with freelance writer <a href="http://www.briannegoodspeed.com/">Brianne Goodspeed</a> in this interview. </p>

<p><strong>How did the War on Bugs come about? Was it a book you’d been thinking about writing for a long time? </strong></p>

<p><em>I began writing the War on Bugs after we [The Sustainable Cotton Project] developed a poster display of old chemical ads and editorials that glorified the chemicals as heroic tools in farmers’ struggles against pests and low fertility. We gave tours to more than one thousand cotton industry, academic, and government officials. The most common question asked on these tours was “How did people get comfortable with spraying poison on their farms, in their house, on their kids, in the river and the lakes?” I decided to find out. This book is the result of that search for how the American public reached this comfort level with toxic chemicals.</em></p>

<p><strong>In your research, do you notice any trends in how chemicals are being marketed to farmers today, as opposed to some of the older ads you review in War on Bugs?</strong></p>

<p><em>Today’s ads are slicker and there is much more discussion about the safety of the products. But, most of the emphasis is still focused on the effectiveness of the product. There still are no warnings about the real dangers in products, either in the ads or on the labels.</em></p>]]>
<![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http://www.amazon.com/War-Bugs-Will-Allen/dp/1933392460?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1207223357&sr=8-1&tag=kitchen-gardeners-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325"><br />
<img src="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/pics/waronbugsbook.jpg" class="floatimgright"> </a><strong>You’re an organic farmer, but you’re also an ex-Marine – and you were arrested and sentenced to a year in jail during the early 70s for civil rights and antiwar activism. That’s not a one-track life. Were there noticeable turning points for you?</strong></p>

<p><em>A turning point for me came during my time in the Marine Corps when I was dispossessed of the belief that as Marines we were protecting democracy, liberty, and freedom. I learned we were mostly protecting corporations. Some of our military actions while I was a Marine were in Lebanon, Cuba, and Vietnam. In Lebanon, we protected American corporations in the mid-East and mid-East allies, no matter how corrupt. In Cuba, we protected American businesses, a dictator, the ruling class that fled to Miami after the Revolution, and the Mafia drug cartels. In Vietnam we protected business interests, rice interests, illegal drug interests – the opium trade – and religious interests. We installed a Catholic president in a nation where 95% of the population was Buddhist and were shocked when he was assassinated. By 1963, I was protesting the Vietnam War in Chicago rallies and campus teach-ins.	</p>

<p>Another pivotal time came when I went to Peru to live with indigenous tribal people. These people were farmers, fishers, and hunters. And they lived in an environment in the tropics in ways that were similar to tribes in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. Like the Southeast Asians, they too were under assault from corporations trying to claim (steal) their land and natural resources. I went to the tropical forest four times from 1964 until 1969, so I was there almost every year. Every year, the pressure on their land got worse. Every year, the Vietnam War got worse. The parallels were too striking between the two struggles, and I focused many of my class and public lectures around their similarities. The area where I’d lived and worked became embroiled in the 1970s and 1980s in the Shining Path movement, which was partly the culmination of resistance to land grabs and government protection of the corporations against the indigenous tribes. </p>

<p>The research we were doing in the tropical forest of Peru was designed to find out how old the settlements were in the upper reaches of the Peruvian tributaries of the Amazon, and to analyze the land-use patterns among the current tribe, the Campa (an Arawak tribe). The Campa occupied those rivers in what is called the Ceja de la Montana (The Eyebrows of the Forest), which is a cloud forest region on the eastern slope of the Andes. Most theorists felt that the tropical forest was not occupied until after contact with the Spanish and the subsequent occupation. I found that the cultural depth was much older than previously presumed, with human settlements radio carbon dated before the time of Christ. </p>

<p>The Campa were able to produce prolific yields without chemicals in a very challenging agricultural environment. This got me thinking that maybe we should try not to be so dependent on chemicals and machinery. Maybe we didn’t need as many as we thought. Most of the people I contacted in the deep reaches of the forest had never seen white people, but were fearful because of all the stories. Yet, in spite of their fears, they embraced me, fed me, answered my goofy questions, and showed me the archaeological sites. They impressed me as being the finest people I have ever met.</p>

<p>Later, I was the faculty adviser to the student legislative body, the Student Council, at the University of California, Santa Barbara. The student legislators were mostly from SDS, Black Students Union, MECHA (Mexican American Alliance), and Women’s liberation groups. I attended their meetings, advised them, and signed off on their programs and expenditures. Most of the programs were radical for the time: a day care program (first in Santa Barbara), a medical clinic, a legal center, and local indigenous tribal outreach programs (to the Chumash tribe).</p>

<p>The notoriety and platform from being faculty adviser to the student government enabled me to talk out about the war and civil rights at demonstrations that were occurring often. My advocacy of “radical” student projects and opposition to the war got me fired, and jailed repeatedly.</p>

<p>After jail, I went into farming on my own.</em></p>

<p><strong>Do you see any similarities in the way that wars are spun and sold to the American public and the ways that toxic chemicals are spun and sold to American farmers?</strong></p>

<p><em>Advertising agencies made a quantum leap during the First World War. They did contract work for the government to sell the war and recruitment work for the Army, Navy, and Marine Corps. The country was isolationist at the time and not interested in getting into another of Europe’s seemingly endless string of wars. Advertisers were able to get enlistments up and the public to buy war bonds. The themes were: a “can do attitude”, (such as, if America enters the war we will win it), a patriotic obligation, and protecting the civil rights of occupied countries. </p>

<p>When the same advertising agencies sold chemicals to farmers and householders, their pitches were similar. We are at war, be patriotic, and “a can do attitude.” That attitude encouraged such boasts as “. . .We can grow more than any other farmers in the world”, which led to the common belief that American farmers are feeding the world.</em></p>

<p><strong>On the flip side, do you see similarities in your resistance – resistance to war and resistance to toxic chemicals?</strong></p>

<p><em>I think that when someone becomes as anti-war as I am, then whatever one does – whether it is organic farming or something else – the irrationality and injustice of war is never far from their consciousness. While farm wars and military wars are of a different scale, many of the chemical and mining corporations that make fertilizer and pesticides are also manufacturers of bombs, and other military hardware and software. I think the sooner we can stop the chemical and genetic war on the farms, and the mindset that we are at war with nature, the better we will be as a species. In a sense, it is hard to not think of the war every time I fire up a tractor or pump or generator or heater that runs on gas or diesel from war zones around the world, especially Iraq. For that reason, we are looking at all the alternatives to fossil fuels for moving vehicles and for stationary heaters and generators.</p>

<p>War is not what is going on at Cedar Circle Organic Farm (in East Thetford, Vermont). We have struggles with pests, including woodchucks, voles, birds, worms, fungi, insects and weeds. We develop and copy strategies that are softer, non poisonous, and often very effective, and sometimes those adopted strategies are not effective. It is a process. We don’t have all the answers, but we have a lot more now than when we started in the 1960s. </em></p>

<p><strong>What else is going on at the farm?</strong></p>

<p><em>We are concerned about energy, training the next generation of farmers, organic farming outreach, local production for a local market, outreach to schools and the inner city food deserts. </p>

<p>Energy projects at the farm include, a used vegetable oil burner for heating a greenhouse, a photovoltaic (a solar electric) array (24 3KW solar collectors) that provide enough energy to run a 6KW Sunny Boy inverter that feeds our power onto the local grid. We just purchased a corn heater that will burn our waste sweet corn. We just converted a tractor to electric power. We have a team of horses that plants our grains and works our ground as soon as we finish harvest.</p>

<p>Training the next generation of farmers includes workshops and jobs for aspiring farmers. We feel the aspirant must work on a farm (or several farms) for three or four years until they get good at planning and executing a plan for the fields, greenhouses, hoophouses and their markets. Then they will probably be good at planning, planting, and harvesting their own fields and selling their produce.</p>

<p>Our outreach includes the Florabunda flower show in Norwich (Vermont), followed by our opening in May that focuses on flowers, ornamentals, perennials, salad mixes, spinach and arugula..</p>

<p>Our outreach also includes festivals and events for the local community. To that end, we have two seasonal celebrations. One is the strawberry festival, which takes place in June or early July and usually draws in 2000 customers if the weather is good. In October we do another festival, this time focused around the pumpkin. Both are U-Pick operation. With strawberries it is free choice for the berries ripe that day. For pumpkins all the cutting and sorting is done by our staff. We have horse drawn rides at both the dinner and festival events.</p>

<p>We also hold three dinners in the field, which are very popular. In August we will do a tomato tasting day that combines local cheeses with local tomatoes and regional wines and beer that the participants bring. </p>

<p>We are starting the seventh year of a program with inner city kids from Worcester, Mass. This began serendipitously when we had an excess of pumpkins. We offered them to inner city organizers that we knew and they asked if we could craft an on-farm program for their kids at the YMCA, the Youth Center, and the Boys and Girls Club. Now they call themselves the Urban Agricultural Academy and farm one acre on our farm and an acre at the 4H camp in Spencer (20 minutes from Worcester). They promote organic food in the inner city by having a subsidized Community Supported Agriculture program (a weekly box of food, worth at least $20.00) and a program to teach kids to grow food and flowers. More than one thousand inner city kids have participated in these programs.</p>

<p>We have hired a new staff member whose job is conducting outreach to local schools, both to start or enhance lunch programs and start or enhance student gardens. We have also been asked to participate in the effort to get more organic and local food into the Dartmouth student cafeteria system.<br />
 <br />
Our goal at the farm is to serve mostly the Upper Connecticut River Valley area from New London to Bradford, and Lyme to Sharon. We do not want to wholesale except to restaurants and the local Co-Ops. We want to be a local production for local use farm. We are trying through energy alternatives and creative practices to keep our greenhouses producing more food for fall and early spring months, since there is a paucity of local food at those times. We are putting in a root cellar so that we can sell more of our produce in better condition during the fall and winter months; such as carrots, beets, potatoes, winter squash, cabbage, cauliflower, garlic, onions, parsnips, turnips as well as processed and frozen goods.</em></p>

<p><strong>What are the some of the changes in how you’ve farmed since you started in 1972?</strong></p>

<p><em>I started doing large-scale (1/2 acre or more) community gardens in 1968. After I got out of Jail in 1971 I went with some friends to Oregon. We worked for Sun Valley Bulb farm picking flowers, harvesting garlic, and planting flower bulbs. We lived with Michael Zander who had studied with the organic guru Alan Chadwick at the University of California, Santa Cruz. Michel was a font of information and taught us all he knew in the time we had. We rented our own piece of land in North Bend, Oregon and mainly used old manure that was fairly well composted, but not completely. For years, I made that same mistake, using manure that had not been completely composted. That mistake increased my weed problems and imported weeds to my farms that I did not already have. </p>

<p>In the early years I planted crops that did not have a definite market. I sold most of that produce on the street, that is, in direct sales at farmers markets and to wholesalers. That practice was a big gamble, and my pigs and chickens ate too much quality produce that we should have sold. I don’t do that any more. We encourage people who want our products to contact us in the planning not the planting or marketing stage.</p>

<p>For the fifteen years after 1971 I worked as a farm laborer on many farms. At the same time I farmed my small farm plots, both owned and rented. In 1987, I quit working for other farmers and concentrated on my own farm plots. In 1989, I took a job for a year and a half managing Fairview Farm in Santa Barbara County. In retrospect, working on and managing other people’s farms took too much energy that I could have been spending on my own farms. I wouldn’t do it again unless I was part owner. I currently co-manage a farm that is part ours.</p>

<p>Our practices (now that we only use well cured compost) are not dramatically different. We are experimenting with no or low till practices, and we are feeding our plants better quality fish and kelp products a little bit more often. We use more beneficial insects to take care of insect and worm pests and almost no organic pesticide sprays except for Colorado potato beetles and tomato hornworms. We cultivate in a more timely manner than we did in earlier years, and in more creative ways. We just converted a cultivating tractor to electric, so that will be a change. No noise and no gas fumes. If it is successful, we will convert another one next year.</em></p>

<p><strong>In general, do you think American agriculture is on an upswing because, for example, more people are aware of the dangers that industrial farming poses to the ecosystem (including human health) or is it on a downswing because there’s been so much damage to our soils and so much land lost to development and agri-business?</strong></p>

<p><em>As I said in the conclusion of the book, I think U.S. agriculture is on a definite trajectory that is hopeful. It is especially hopeful because it coincides with a world-wide movement for clean, safe food and fiber. But, make no mistake, most of U.S. ag. is still chemically dependent and most of the major commodities are genetically manipulated. And, the food giants have the public platform of paid-for advertising in the dominant media outlets, including: print, radio, billboards, and Cable and Network TV.</p>

<p>We definitely have a lot to clean up from 160 years of chemical farming but organic is one way to accomplish that clean-up. Organic farming also sequesters carbon dioxide and methane, both serious greenhouse, and global warming gasses. Customers are the key. In Europe it was the consuming public that rewrote environmental and food laws. We need that effort here. Another aspect is businesses willing to gamble on green business. It has worked in Europe and Japan. It can work here too. Finally, there is policy. We must change agricultural policy and take away subsidies from rich farmers, processors and investors. Those subsidies should be focused on changing agriculture from the factory farming where 80% of our farming is devoted to meat and milk production to sustainable organic farming of whatever is grown or raised. To be sustainable, we need to eat less meat, grow less meat, and stop destroying the land for this badly skewed animal based paradigm. Until we do that, all the other changes will be cosmetic.</em></p>

<p><strong>Are other countries taking a different attitude toward pesticides than the United States? If so, what are the differences?</strong></p>

<p><em>Many farmers in India are taking a different attitude toward agriculture than the U.S. That is not to say that all have. In fact, farmers who went for the U.S. brand of chemically based export agriculture have paid the final price. More than 100,000 cotton farmers have committed suicide (because they were in debt for pesticides, fertilizers, or usury farm or mortgage loans). More than 30,000 sold their kidneys into the international organ market to pay their pesticide or mortgage payments. </p>

<p>Still, there are more than 500,000,000 Indian farmers in the farmers union who are opposed to chemicals, synthetic fertilizers, and genetically altered seed. These farmers save their seed, make their own compost fertilizers, make their own compost teas, and their own pesticide spray. They have rediscovered thousands of local varieties of rice and hundreds of varieties of cucumber, millet, and pepper. They are involved in a national movement that loves local foods and eschews corporate varieties of rice and millet.</p>

<p>Cuba is another country that has embraced an organic model in their fruit and vegetable farming. They took this route because they had no access to cheap or subsidized chemical fertilizers and pesticides after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. The organic techniques got them through some tough times economically. Whether all of Cuba will embrace an organic model is questionable since their meat and milk industry has not bought into the organic paradigm as yet.</em></p>

<p><strong>Last question – it’s been said that you can tell a lot about a person by looking in their fridge and on their bookshelf. So, what’s in your fridge and what’s on your bookshelf?</strong></p>

<p><em>We eat almost exclusively organic. Occasionally someone will bring us something that is not certified and we will eat it. But, since we know how toxic non-organic or non-biodynamic food is we try to avoid it. When we travel, of course we do not have the same luxury. But, wherever we go we look for organic, in the stores, supermarkets, or farmers markets. We eat no meat except fish and shellfish. We don’t eat a lot of that because of the contamination of mercury from power plants. We do not eat farmed fish or fish from distant ports and fisheries.</p>

<p>Our diet is pretty much Mexican, Italian, Indian, a bit of French and some Armenian (because our partner is Armenian and the food is sooo tasty). It is easy to be vegetarian or vegetarian with fish in all of these cuisines.</p>

<p>My bookshelf is not all organic, though a significant portion is. We are interested in labor history, native American history and native issues, Latin America, black history and black culture. We have lots of how to build and gardening-farming books. We have a collection of Indian books, Ghandi, communism in India, Hinduism, Buddahism, etc. We have a large collection of books about the Middle east, the Arab-Israeli conflicts, and books on Islam. We also have a growing collection of books about early Christianity, the Gnostic gospels, etc. And then, of course, we have lots of books about pesticides, fertilizer, and farm history. My wife Kate is a literature bug so there is everything from Henry James to Allende. We also have a nice and growing collection of anarchist books. We also have books on the Armenian genocide. Thanks to our dear friends the late Grace Paley and her husband Bob Nichols, we have both become more interested in poetry and short stories.</em></p>]]>
</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Kitchen gardening: a &quot;globolocal&quot; phenemenon</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/kgis_global_network.html" />
<modified>2008-04-16T14:22:22Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-16T11:45:05Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.660</id>
<created>2008-04-16T11:45:05Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> Some people ask us about the global nature of our network of kitchen gardeners. We recently dug deep into our database to see what countries are represented. Here we are: Afghanistan, Algeria, Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Argentina, Australia, Austria,...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>KGI news and activities</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img alt="globolocal041608.jpg" src="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/pics/globolocal041608.jpg" width="500" height="333" /></p>

<p>Some people ask us about the global nature of our network of kitchen gardeners.  We recently dug deep into our database to see what countries are represented.  Here we are: </p>

<p><em>Afghanistan, Algeria, Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Bahamas, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belgium, Belize, Brazil, Bulgaria, Cambodia, Canada, China, Cote D'Ivoire Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Dominica, Ecuador, Eritrea, Estonia, Ethiopia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Grenada, Guyana, Hong Kong, Hungary, Iceland, India, Indonesia, Iran, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Kenya, Kuwait, Lebanon, Liberia, Luxembourg, Malawi, Malaysia, Mauritius, Mexico, Myanmar, Nepal, Netherlands, Netherlands, Antilles, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Nigeria, Norway, Pakistan, Paraguay, Philippines, Portugal, Puerto Rico, Singapore, Slovenia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sri Lanka, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Trinidad and Tobago, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Uganda, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States, Uruguay, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Venezuela, Virgin Islands, Zambia, Zimbabwe. </em></p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>The Cutest Baby of the Bunch</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/the_cutest_baby.html" />
<modified>2008-04-11T12:11:00Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-11T11:57:45Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.663</id>
<created>2008-04-11T11:57:45Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain">By Barbara Damrosch, published Thursday, April 10, 2008 in The Washington Post Most baby vegetables are small because we make them that way. A cute three-inch-long zucchini is the result of an intervention. If not harvested at that size, it...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>organic gardening</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p>By <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGarden-Primer-Second-Barbara-Damrosch%2Fdp%2F0761122753%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1202413936%26sr%3D1-2&tag=kitchengarden-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Barbara Damrosch</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchengarden-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />, published Thursday, April 10, 2008 in The Washington Post</p>

<p><img alt="babycorn041108.jpg" src="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/pics/babycorn041108.jpg" width="500" height="375" /></p>

<p>Most baby vegetables are small because we make them that way. A cute three-inch-long zucchini is the result of an intervention. If not harvested at that size, it would grow as big as your thigh. A mini pumpkin stays mini, but only because it has been programmed to do so by a modern breeder.</p>

<p>Currant tomatoes, on the other hand, are tiny because they are ancient and relatively un-tampered with. They look the way the first tomatoes probably looked -- clusters of delicious little fruits no larger than large blueberries (or currants, hence the name). Cherry tomatoes look jumbo by comparison. Considered by some to be a distinct species, Lycopersicon pimpinellifolium, the currant type is extremely prolific. The plants, laden with hundreds of berries, are very vigorous and disease-resistant. They can even withstand a few light frosts.</p>

<p>The stems are thin and lax. All vining tomatoes are floppy, but these are almost impossible to stake. An excellent way to manage them is to let them festoon a fence or ramble over a low stone wall. They're best grown off by themselves anyway, as they tend to crowd other garden plants and self-sow with abandon. Since they cross-pollinate readily with other tomatoes, it's best to keep them at a distance of at least 50 feet if you plan to save seeds.</p>

<p>Picking currant tomatoes can be tedious, but well worth it for their rich, concentrated flavor. They look gorgeous sprinkled over salad or as a garnish for any summer dish. Try them atop peach ice cream. They can also be dried to make sweet tomato raisins.</p>

<p>To some extent, currant tomatoes have been selected or bred for various traits, particularly color. The standard red type can be found at a number of seed companies, including <a href="http://www.kitchengardenseeds.com">John Scheepers</a>. There are also yellow varieties such as Gold Currant from <a href="http://www.tomatofest.com">Tomato Fest</a>. White varieties such as Little White Rabbit from <a href="http://www.amishlandseeds.com">Amishland Heirloom Seeds</a> are actually somewhere between yellow and cream. A mix of colors in a bowl would be the hit of a summer party. Some currant tomatoes are more prone to dropping their fruits. Tomato Fest's Hawaiian Currant holds onto its fruit until the whole cluster is ripe.</p>

<p>There is still time to buy seeds to start indoors, or order plants in three-inch pots from <a href="http://www.whiteflowerfarm.com">White Flower Farm</a>. They are shipped in mid- to late April, but the gardener can hold them in a protected spot if warm tomato-planting weather gets held up in traffic.</p>

<p><em>Article copyright of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGarden-Primer-Second-Barbara-Damrosch%2Fdp%2F0761122753%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dbooks%26qid%3D1202413936%26sr%3D1-2&tag=kitchengarden-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Barbara Damrosch</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=kitchengarden-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />. Reprinted with permission. </em><br />
<em>Baby corn image credit: <a href="http://www.qrissy.com">Krissy Downing</a></em><br />
</p>]]>

</content>
</entry>
<entry>
<title>Planting the Urban Jungle</title>
<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2008/04/planting_the_urban_jungle.html" />
<modified>2008-04-02T21:40:07Z</modified>
<issued>2008-04-02T21:01:19Z</issued>
<id>tag:www.kitchengardeners.org,2008://13.662</id>
<created>2008-04-02T21:01:19Z</created>
<summary type="text/plain"> A recent article in the British newspaper The Guardian highlighted efforts underway in the city of Middlesbrough to source more food from within the city limits. It&apos;s amazing the results they&apos;ve already had and the ambitious goals they have...</summary>
<author>
<name>KGI</name>

<email>roger@kitchengardeners.org</email>
</author>
<dc:subject>food system change</dc:subject>
<content type="text/html" mode="escaped" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.kitchengardeners.org/">
<![CDATA[<p><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/73/184771143_5f5ff66100.jpg"/></p>

<p>A <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/mar/26/cityfood">recent article</a> in the British newspaper <em>The Guardian</em> highlighted efforts underway in the city of  <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Middlesbrough">Middlesbrough </a>to source more food from within the city limits.  It's amazing the results they've already had and the ambitious goals they have for the future:</p>

<p><em>The idea of the urban farming project was to make people more aware of food miles, improve health and aid regeneration of the borough, which contains the ninth most deprived area in the UK. Groundwork South Tees advised schools, mental health hospitals, residential care homes and retailers on planting and growing many varieties of herbs, vegetables and fruit. Containers of different sizes were used so people could cultivate whatever space they had.</p>

<p>Middlesbrough borough council turned over parkland, town-centre planters and other landholdings for fruit and vegetable growing. The eight-month project culminated in a town meal outside the Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art, where up to 8,000 people shared meals from the food that had been grown.</p>

<p>This year, Middlesbrough plans to supply seeds and containers to anyone interested, and already has 2,000 individuals and groups lined up, including 31 out of 51 schools, with 280 growing sites. "This has caught people's imagination. But we've gone beyond novelty now and people want to make it a mainstream activity," says Ian Collingwood, a regeneration consultant at the council.</em></p>

<p>With the world's urban population on the rise and oil reserves in decline, these types of efforts will be critical and central to cities' sustainability plans.  </p>

<p>Those of you living in or near New York City will soon have an opportunity to connect with people and organizations that share your interest in urban gardening  at the third annual NYC GROWS Garden Festival, hosted by the National Gardening Association and the New York City Department of Parks and Recreation.  The action will take place on Sunday, April 27, from 10 to 5, in Union Square Park South Plaza at 14th Street. There will be hands-on activities for the whole family, food and beverage sampling, chef and gardening demonstrations, a prize drawing, and much more.  </p>

<p>Visit <a href="http://www.garden.org/nycgrows">www.garden.org/nycgrows</a> for more information.</p>

<p><em>Photo credit: urban garden in Cheong-ju, South Korea by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/daxmelmer/">Dax Melmer</a></em></p>]]>

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